Waterproof vs. water-resistant: what is the difference?

You are in the shop with two jackets in your hands. One says water-repellent, the other waterproof. They look almost the same, but there is a big price difference. What are you actually getting for that money?

The answer is more important than you think. Especially in winter, when wet and cold combine, the difference determines whether you come home dry or want to head home shivering halfway through your walk.

The short difference

Water-repellent means that water beads off the fabric for a while. You stay dry in a short shower or light snow, but in persistent rain, the water will eventually get through.

Waterproof goes a step further. The fabric keeps water out, even if it rains for hours or if you are walking through wet snow. This is only achieved with a special membrane or coating, combined with taped seams.

What does water-repellent mean?

Water-repellent clothing usually has a dense weave structure with a treatment on the outside. This treatment is often called DWR, which stands for Durable Water Repellent. This causes water to sit on the fabric as beads and roll off.

The advantage: water-repellent clothing is often lighter, more flexible, and breathable. Ideal for dry, cold days, active exertion, or a quick snow shower.

The disadvantage: the treatment wears off. Over time, water soaks into the fabric instead of beading off. Then the jacket becomes heavier and feels colder.

What does waterproof mean?

Waterproof clothing has an extra layer that genuinely keeps water out. This is usually a thin membrane or a coating on the inside of the fabric. In addition, the seams are taped, as this is where water could otherwise seep in.

Zippers, pockets, and cuffs are also important. A jacket may be made of waterproof fabric, but if the zipper is simply exposed, water will still get in there.

The water column: what do those numbers mean?

On labels, you often see a number in millimeters, such as 5,000 or 10,000 mm. That is the water column. It indicates how much water pressure the fabric can withstand before water gets through.

The higher the number, the better the fabric is at resisting prolonged rain and pressure. Pressure is created, for example, if you kneel on wet snow or if a backpack presses against your shoulders.

There is no global standard, but as a rule of thumb, many manufacturers consider fabric from about 10,000 mm to be truly waterproof. For harsh conditions, they often choose 20,000 mm or more.

How to recognize truly waterproof clothing

A label with the word waterproof does not tell the whole story. Look at the details too. Is there a water column on the label, and how high is it? Are the seams taped? Do the zippers have a waterproof finish or a flap over them?

The fit also plays a role. Cuffs that close well, a hood that stays put, and a collar that is high enough keep water out in places where it would otherwise enter.

Breathability also counts

Waterproof is not everything. When you move, you produce sweat. If that damp air cannot escape, you will get wet anyway, but from the inside.

That is why most high-quality waterproof garments are also breathable. The membrane keeps rain out but lets water vapor from your body escape. This keeps you dry on both sides.

What do you need in winter?

That depends on where you are. In the mountains, snow is often dry and cold. A good water-repellent layer can be perfectly adequate then, especially if you are active.

In the Netherlands, winter is usually wet. Rain, wet snow, and temperatures around freezing point call for clothing that is truly waterproof. Wet cold, in particular, causes you to cool down quickly.

Don't forget your hands. Wet gloves are one of the fastest ways to get cold fingers. Water conducts heat much faster than air, so a dry, well-sealed glove makes a big difference.

How to keep your clothing waterproof

Waterproof clothing also requires maintenance. Dirt, sweat, and skin oils reduce both the water-repellent layer and the breathability. With a few simple steps, your clothing will last much longer.

Frequently asked questions

Is water-repellent enough for winter sports?

For dry snow and sunny weather, often yes. If there is wet snow or rain, or if you spend a lot of time in the snow, then waterproof is much more pleasant.

Why do I get wet in a waterproof jacket?

Usually due to sweat that cannot escape, or water getting in at the collar, cuffs, or zipper. It is also possible that the outer fabric is saturated, making the jacket less breathable.

What does breathable mean in numbers?

Some manufacturers indicate how much water vapor a fabric lets through per square meter per day, in grams. The higher that number, the better the fabric breathes. Just like with the water column, there is no fixed standard, so compare products within the same brand.

Can you make water-repellent clothing waterproof?

Not completely. With a waterproofing agent, you can restore the water-repellent layer, but a fabric without a membrane or coating will not become truly waterproof.

Finally

Water-repellent keeps you dry in a short shower. Waterproof keeps you dry when it is really raining. And breathable ensures you don't get wet from the inside.

So look beyond the label and consider where and how you will use your clothing. That way, you will choose exactly what you need, from your jacket to your gloves.